It was a day of debuts in
Some highlights from the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week previews of mostly womenswear for next spring and summer:
Kim Kardashian’s love of
She remembers growing up watching her mother dress in
When Kardashian and her sisters owned a store, she borrowed her father’s credit card to buy a bunch of D&G dresses, jeans and belts before her paycheck came in.
Even the family dogs were named
“It is very close to reality,’’
But no matter how hard she tried, even deploying her mother,
That is, until Kardashian proved she had the right stuff.
When
“Everything looked insane. It was so fun,’’ Kardashian said of the wedding looks. “I think (the designers) were surprised I came with all my own stuff and I had been collecting it for years.”
Dolce said the wedding photos persuaded them to dig into the archives, and he approached Kardashian about the project.
“We were afraid that the vintages dresses would look old. Instead, they were still contemporary,’’ Dolce said.
And so the new Spring-Summer 2023 collection was born, with the designers selecting looks from the past that they loved, many with memories attached working with models like
“After all these years, this is all of the stuff we would wear today,’’ Kardashian said. “As a designer, I would just think that is so cool, to see everyone trying to emulate the looks. And why not do a full collection, obviously with some new pieces in there, but just reimagined in a way that we would wear it today, which is so similar to how it was shot and worn back then.”
HASHTAG CIAO,KIM AT
Designers
And indeed, Kardashian’s curation showed her full embrace of Dolce & Gabbana’s Italian roots.
“You just don’t take shit from anyone when you are here and wearing Dolce & Gabbana,’’ Kardashian told reporters. “You feel powerful, and strong and sexy at the same time.”
Lingerie strongly inspired the collection. There were corsets, incorporated bras and bodysuits, employing all of the designer’s best tricks, from rigid bones for structural elements, to pretty lace and eye-catching crystals. They were worn with gartered stockings and long gloves, or under beautiful wraps.
Kardashian adhered to a mostly neutral palette: black, gray and beige, with some burgundy. And she the drew the line at prints, completely rejecting the brand’s fruits and florals, causing Gabbana to lament: “She killed me. I said ‘Noooo!’”
But she went all in on the leopard.
“I would say the boys brought out the leopard in me,’’ Kardashian said. “I think you will see that for me, color is the crystals.’’
The collection was designed with women of all ages and shapes in mind, Kardashian said, with the goal of simplifying designs to help some of the more ornate pieces feel less intimidating.
“If you simplify it, more people can feel confident wearing it. And I think we really achieved that in the show,” she said.
Kardashian’s mom, three of her children and sister Khloe sat in the front row. Proud mamma
JIL SANDER’S TRANQUILITY
The collection lends itself to easy layering and defies all gender stereotypes. Creative directors Lucie and
Sleeveless suiting worked across genders, and men wore long pastel kilts with button-down shirts. Knitwear was distressed, with rough edges and slits, in both tops and dresses. The designers chose a single print, featuring blurry points of light.
Models carried umbrellas to protect the looks from the seasonal rainfall -- inconvenient for an outdoor show but welcome in
FERRAGAMO’S NEW DAWN
The 27-year-old British designer worked strong silhouettes and simple elements, like tank tops and leggings, or full-on bodysuits, all the better to highlight the bag of the season, oversized cutout bags in highly polished leather with a canvas interior. Dresses were slinky in solid colors or flowing chiffon in degradé prints; a red trouser and skin-tight top combo popped with crystals. Strappy sandals featured a distinctive circular heel.
The male silhouette was challenged with an off-shoulder, sheer ombre dyed top, the colors an homage to the
Models trod across red sand that covered the entire courtyard, a reference to Ferragamo’s
The sea and the sand mean for him "a place where you can go to reflect, and feel at one,’’ he said. "I wanted to show that perspective, but now through the Ferragamo lens.”
Super model
BALLY REBOOTED
Filippino American designer Rhuigi Villasenor, best known for his
His debut collection paid tribute to the brand’s heritage of quiet elegance, while introducing an edge. A plunging V-neck swimsuit was worn with snakeskin boots, while a long beaded skirt featured a waist-high slit and was paired casually with a denim top. For him, a flashy reptile leather jacket was worn with a mesh top and jeans, but there was also a dark blue double-breasted suit for more formal business occasions.
Villasenor said he was inspired by “the brand’s codes around art, graphic design, architecture and nature.”
BOTTEGA VENETA’S TROMP L’OEUIEL
To the uninitiated,
Every piece in Blazy’s sophomore collection was strong: from the intarsia knitwear that have ice blue and red vying for the starring role, to the leather shift dresses and jackets with unexpected folds, to the shredded leather skirts and dresses, and sheer dresses embellished with velvety floral appliques.
At Bottega Veneta, leather is king. Bags include beautifully crafted fishing bags that fit neatly on the body, either in flat leather or a basket weave, to bucket-bags worn flung over the shoulder.
Blazy collaborated with Italian architect and designer
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